I adore beets of all kinds: The earthy sweet, the lurid magenta, the striped pink and the goldens. Sure, they’re not to everyone’s taste, but their strong character stands up to a range of intense flavors — vinegar, horseradish, mustard, piquant dairy sauces, vinaigrettes, smoked fish.

I like them best either steamed or roasted. Cooking mitigates the effects of geosmin, the natural earthy compound that beets contain that is associated with the vegetable’s smell of “fresh rain” and “forest soil.” Early in the season, beets are mild and sweet; as they mature, they become more assertive, more themselves.

Growing up in Southern Thailand, Nok Suntaranon spent most days after school helping her mother sell homemade curry pastes in the local market.

Dealing with customers. Pushing the heavy cart with her two brothers. Staining her fingers yellow as she peeled turmeric root by the kilo, enough for the 110 pounds of curry paste her mother sold every day.

Her mother needed the help. Suntaranon’s grandfather, who was helping to support the family, and her aunt were killed in a motorbike accident when she was just 4. Her mother was forced to become breadwinner overnight.